Understanding more about these complex wave patterns and how to react if you are caught in one could very well save your life, or the life of a friend or family member.
The name "Riptide" is a confusing term in that it implies that these currents are associated with tides themselves, but it isn't true. Tides are consistent, change gradually and are mostly caused by the moon's gravitational pull. Rip currents are actually caused by the shape of the shoreline and can occur suddenly and without warning.
Another misconception regarding rip currents is an association with "undertow." The main difference is: undertow pulls you down to the bottom of the ocean, whereas rip currents move along the surface of the water, pulling you out into the ocean. A rip current can knock you off of your feed, even in shallow water. They occur in all types of weather and beaches. Most people don't even notice a rip current until they are captured by it.
How do Rip Currents Occur?
In short, rip currents occur when water gets caught up in a sand bar. Sometimes the sand bar is visible from the shore, other times it is covered fully by water. When the water finds (or creates) an opening in the sand bar, the water rushes out to sea in a similar way to water rushing out of a bathtub when the plug is pulled.
This illustration from "How stuff works" clearly shows the rip current and best way to escape from its path.
As the water rushes through the hole in the sandbar with great force, you must swim horizontally either before the sandbar or after. Staying in the middle is of the greatest risk.
Escaping a Rip Current
1. RELAX and STAY CALM
If you thrash and fight the rip current, you might end up being pulled along the ocean floor. But, if you RELAX your body, the current should keep you near the ocean surface.
('Typically, the strongest part of a rip current is the direct line between the water's edge and the sandbar opening. ...Once the receding wave makes its way through the sandbar opening and meets up with water at its own level, its pressure immediately drops' making escape more manageable.)
If you get caught up in a rip current, it's crucial to stay CALM and ALERT. Your first instinct may be to swim against the current, back to shallow waters. In most cases, even if you're a strong swimmer, this will only wear you out. The current is too strong to fight head-on.
2. SWIM SIDEWAYS
Instead, swim sideways, parallel to the beach. This will get you out of the narrow outward current. If it's too hard to swim sideways while you're being dragged through the water, just wait until the current carries you past the sandbar. The water will be much calmer there, and you can get clear of the rip current before heading back in.
3. CONSERVE ENERGY & GET PAST THE RIP CURRENT
People drown when they thrash about in the water or expend all of their energy swimming. To survive a rip current, or any crisis in the water, you have to keep calm, and you have to conserve your energy. If you don't think you can swim all the way back to the beach, get past the rip current and tread water. Call for help, signal to people on the beach and, if all else fails, wait for the waves to carry you in.
How to spot a Rip Current
Depending on its severity, you may be able to see a rip current from the beach. Strong rip currents disrupt incoming waves and stir up sand from the ocean floor.
When you're at the beach, keep an eye out for narrow, muddy streaks in the ocean where there aren't any waves breaking.
How To Help Someone Caught in a Rip Current
If you're on the beach and see somebody else caught in a rip current, call for help from a lifeguard or the police. Don't immediately dive in and swim out to the person. It's too risky to swim out there yourself unless you have a raft, boogie board or life preserver with you.
The most effective way to fight rip currents is to follow basic swimming safety rules: Never go in the ocean alone, and if you aren't a strong swimmer, stick to shallow waters (although even shallow waters can be dangerous). Ideally, you should only swim in areas where there is a lifeguard or strong swimmer on the beach who can keep an eye on you.
If you plan to swim in the ocean anytime soon, it's a good idea to learn everything you can about rip currents. After all, they are the beach's number-one killer.'
(quote source)
Quick Guide to Surviving a Rip Current
1. RELAX your body and the current should keep you near the water surface
2. STAY CALM and ALERT
3. SWIM SIDEWAYS, parallel to the beach
4. or CONSERVE ENERGY and wait until the current carries you past the sandbar, then swim clear of the tide
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